Practice Based Research
Fashion scholarship, in the form of creative art practice, provides a unique chance for researchers to express abstracted ideas as they relate to the body and identity, or the community and identity, in clothing and appearance. Not surprisingly, the role of the educator and advocate for change, features prominently in many of the creative researcher’s work. Katherine Townsend, Emma Prince, Alison Escott, Gill Barker and Tim Bassford contributed the outcomes of student work focused on expanding the design experience in support of social good in Emanuel House X NTU: Be Protected; Be Visible; Be Functional; Be Secure; Be Transformable. The project brought groups of students to work with members of a homeless shelter to create up-cycled clothing that solved specific requirements through a user centered design focus. Polly Kenny in Using Digital Resources to Develop Responsible Design: ARTCHERIE Project reports on a project with students that utilizes digital archives aimed at negotiating the importance of cultural and social responsibility while considering inclusivity and diversity.
Jennifer Whitty expands the scope of her role as teacher beyond the immediate classroom to encompass the general public in her proposed flash-mob performance Throwaway. The flash-mob was aimed at engaging the public encouraging consideration of the intricate relationship with clothing, the meaning that we instill in our dress, and our shared responsibility of the disposal of that clothing. Similarly, Shweta Rangekar, Patricia Sumod and Kundlata Mishra in #NoStitchSeptember- A Surreal Journey Towards Sustainable Fashion engaged the larger community via social media to conduct an experiment utilizing both historical precedent and contemporary zero-waste methodology for possible solutions to sustainable practice.
Other academics were inspired by their students and the inherent negotiations of inclusivity, diversity, social justice and environmental concerns that youth must encounter as their world view expands upon entry into adulthood. Anne Porterfield created work which engaged students as subjects in a discussion of body image and inclusivity in Every Body Fits Here. Porterfield reminds us that as subjective and objective participants in the fashion system, educators must consistently navigate increasingly outdated notions of beauty and acceptance. Sue Hershberger Yoder and Melissa Campbell were inspired by the similarities of student protests stemming from the Vietnam War in the 1970s and the 2018 protests of students inspired by inaction of the government to combat gun violence in Kindred Bloom Collaboration. In both cases craft practice is an important element conveying intimacy of personal creation and self-representation.
Continuing in this examination of personal statements within a larger context of society, the following artists used their work to suggest the importance of clothing as a form of protest. Travis W Li, Elita YN Lam, and Eddy S. Lui show what happens when designers and environmental activists come together in Fashion Activism with Community: Co-Design Project Between Fashion Designers and Bike Commuters in Hong Kong. Here designers support bike-commuters desire to utilize carbon neutral transportation by co-designing biking-friendly clothing that also calls attention to environmentalism. Krissi Riewe in Sewn at $0.13/hour presents a visual representation of elapsed time, pointing out the unappreciated and underpaid makers of clothing. A singular dress, with the handprints of all that have touched it in the process of making it, reminds the viewer of the labor involved in making clothing that we all take for granted. Finally, Anahita Suri utilizes the controversial Muslim ‘burqa’ to call attention to the misunderstandings that Muslims and non-Muslims have attached to this piece of women’s clothing in her installation Wrap Me Up…Or Not….
Throughout these papers and presentations, a viewer will undoubtedly see the thoughtful and considered approach of global fashion researchers and academics seeking to affect positive change in the fashion industry and in our global community. IFFTI researchers have advanced several interesting and compelling case studies, creative projects, and qualitative or quantitative studies which add to the breadth of knowledge we share in the hopes that we can make a difference for the environment, for society and the greater good.
Browse the IFFTI 2020: Between Individual and Society. Practice Based Research Collections
Emmanuel House X NTU: Be Protected; Be Visible; Be Functional; Be Secure; Be Transformable06/2020Emmanuel House X NTU is a practice research collaboration between a homeless charity in Nottingham and Year One, Level 4 BA Fashion Design students from Nottingham Trent University. The resulting garments and film highlight and seek to mitigate the disparity between clothing waste and clothing poverty, through a participatory, human-centred, upcycled design approach. |
Using Digital Resources to Develop Responsible Design: ART-CHERIE Project06/2020Textile designers have the opportunity to select and use archival collections to develop contemporary designs. The Design Library in New York is an example of a such a company offering source material that professional designers or brands might choose to pay to make use of. Student designers need to be encouraged to exercise responsibility when exploring global cultures in the appropriate appreciation and use of historical textile resources. As in many universities, designers within the BA (Hons) Fashion Textiles course are introduced to the responsibilities of social design at the beginning of their course. Through such study students consider inclusivity and diversity, social responsibility and sustainability as fundamental to developing their designer identity. This alternative poster/ installation will introduce the Art Cherie project, (Achieving and Retrieving Creativity through European Fashion Cultural Heritage Inspiration), a pilot online course aimed at professional/ student designers, that draws on digital archives as a design resource. The resource applies a mixed method research approach based on a methodology outlined by Jules Prown (1982) and Ingrid Mida and Alexandra Kim (2015) explored through demonstrations, case study examples and self-directed activities. Trend forecasting is introduced within the resource as a process of looking at wider social, cultural, political and economic factors occurring internationally at any given time and how these are applied to areas of the fashion industry. Consideration of cultural context as part of the research process seeks to avoid a Eurocentric approach. The alternative poster/ installation will include textile samples and research source data to illustrate how such a resource might be used within the curriculum to develop deeper understanding of appreciating and sharing cultural responsibility and support the development of responsible designers. |
Throwaway06/2020 |
Throwaway06/2020 |
#NoStitchSeptember – A Surreal Journey Towards Sustainable Fashion06/2020Fashion - an aesthetic and popular expression is contributing heavily in generating carbon footprint and polluting environment. Sadly, in the present times of climate emergency we cannot let our sense of aesthetics endanger the planet and our existence in turn. It is the need of the hour to explore sustainable fashion and aim for zero waste. Timo Risannen in his investigation about creating fashion without generating fabric waste explored 5 main techniques for zero/minimal waste namely – cut & sew, fully fashioned, jigsaw puzzle, cradle to cradle and A-POC. But like Olympics medalist, Peter Westbrook said “so much of our future lies in preserving our past!”, there is scope for an alternative by reviving from our ancestors, the art of fashion - a draped cloth. It was seen in history (Indus Valley/Egyptian/Greek/Roman) of clothing. A rectangular piece of cloth provides infinite possibilities, ‘one size fits all’, easy maintenance, easy storage and zero waste. It can be styled in numerous ways providing scope for personalization. With aim at exploring the potential of draped clothing to be a wardrobe staple, an experiment was conducted inviting volunteers from social media to see if they could pull off a month with use of draped clothing in their everyday lifestyle. The participants were asked to use rectangular pieces of fabric styled as clothing. They could layer and use fasteners/belts/accessories. It was observed that the first challenge was to overcome fear of malfunction and ease for daily use. Overall feedback was positive and shows scope for consideration as a sustainable fashion option. The participant with prior knowledge of draping were better at coping. However, it was difficult to stay warm in cold weather. Thus, results have been compiled as a short film to see if the future of fashion can take a tangential turn towards draped clothing. |
Every Body Fits Here06/2020This project was built around celebrating body diversity. Images of people were translated into a work of textile art through digital printing and embroidery. Bodies and body positive messages were represented in a stylized manner and subjects were engaged in the design process to promote community engagement in the message. |
Kindred Bloom Collaboration06/2020The Kindred Bloom project was created for the ‘Wearing Justice’ exhibit on view at the Kent State University Museum 2019-20. As we acknowledge the 50th Anniversary of the May 4th Kent State shootings, we find the parallels between the student activists in 1970 and contemporary youth activists pronounced. In the 1970’s young passionate students demonstrated against the American war in Vietnam and Korea by holding rallies and demonstrations. At the time of Kindred Bloom’s conception, we were again witnessing the mobilization of youth activists, this time urging leaders to address gun safety legislation. Immediately following the Marjory Stoneman Douglas school shooting on February 14th, 2018, the media outlets were publishing images of children responding angrily to the lack of gun laws. Some images featured children with friendship bracelets which were inherently made in the innocence of youth, displayed on the wrists of these children. Currently, youth are holding rallies to gain the attention of those in power and working on digital platforms such as Facebook and Twitter to grow a community of support. Our collaborative response to Kent State University’s commemoration of the May 4th event is a conceptual installation in which we imagine the youth activists of today utilizing folk-art-inspired art previously employed by their youth activist counterparts in the 1970’s to embellished their clothing to both communicate support and create/reinforce community. |
Fashion Activism with Community: Co-Design Project Between Fashion Designers & Bike Commuters in Hong Kong06/2020A dynamic range of new denimwear including Qipao jumpsuit, Modern Cycling Dress, Biker Set, Engineered Denim Gear were co-created by 4 matchup of fashion designers and bike commuters in Hong Kong. This collaboration serves as a practice-based example of fashion activism giving rise to innovation over ordinary products for specific community group. |
Sewn at $0.13/hour06/2020This piece visually illustrates how inexpensive fashion garments are made using sweatshop laborers who are often underserved peoples with little opportunity to demand better working conditions. By sewing a garment with paint-covered hands on transparent fabric, the marks left behind illuminate the skill and dexterity required of a garment industry worker and the need for transparency to hold the industry accountable for unethical labor practices. |
Wrap Me Up … Or Not …06/2020The burqa is a controversial garment that evokes contradicting views from the Muslims and non-Muslims based on their socio-cultural and religious views. This installation aims to create awareness of the different perspectives on the burqa and have an amicable dialogue on this highly debatable subject. |