Open Access Kent State (OAKS)

Sempre Sposa
Devin Hilt

“Sempre Sposa” is a bridal collection that explores the idea of multi-use wedding dresses. Bridal gowns are known for couture quality, elaborate construction and detail, and making a woman feel beautiful on her big day. The bridal industry has developed a tradition of one-time- use garments, which ends up limiting the value of the dress to only one day. If the life-cycle of a wedding dress can be extended, the bride can receive a greater value for the cost of her gown. How can designers change this one-time-use culture and create wedding dresses that can be used long after the ceremony? How can customers get the full value of their dress?

The development of this thesis began with researching traditional bridal construction techniques, styles, and trends, as well as market analysis. After the initial research, design ideas were exercised through sampling of beading and embroidery. Garment deconstruction and transformation methods were also tested through trial-and-error investigations. The final line-up of the collection was created after several peer and instructor critiques, followed by a process of redesign and problem-solving through muslin construction. After the designs and experimentations were completed, the final garments were constructed in fashion fabric, with all surface detail.

The results of this thesis are an 8 look collection of bridal gowns that can be converted into about 85 different garment pairings. These findings are an example of how a wedding dress can be designed for multi-use and allow the bride to receive the full value and use of her dress.

My BFA collection will focus on ocean conservation and reflect on how American consumption has damaged our eco systems, both in the fashion industry and other industries. The collection will focus on the beauty of the ocean, why it should be conserved, as well as compare and contrast the effects of human consumption on marine life, with a special focus on ocean acidification and plastic debris in the ocean. These two will specifically be addressed because they are two of the largest threats facing our oceans. They are beautiful events visually, but they also come with a chilling message.

The collection focuses on embroideries that exemplify the atrocity of human consumption in our oceans. From afar the surface designs appear quite beautiful, but up close it becomes obvious that the reef-like patterns fade from color to a stark white or become plastic. The collection also uses largely organic fibers rather than harmful synthetics, and certain pieces were constructed to be less wasteful. Sustainable practices are important, however it is a work in progress to reach entirely zero waste patterning. The first step in repairing human consumption is simply to make less products that will be thrown away after one use. Creating wearable garments, that will last a lifetime is the first step in limiting our consumption.

“There is definitely a shallow element to any industry focused on appearances. But I think of it this way; fashion is just the surface, and when speaking about the surface sometimes is it very difficult to see what lies beneath.” (The Fashion Spot)

The world of fashion is seen by many as such a superficial industry with no depth. I would like to use this opportunity of designing my thesis to pay homage to an important person in my life. Typically inspirations for collections are pulled form nature or art to project lovely aesthetics. However, I am taking my inspiration from the life of a close personal friend of mine. An alias is used throughout this collection, Ruthie. Aside form the neutrals and tonal colors the common thread in my collection is the toile wallpaper I manipulate covering the walls in her house when I was a little kid.-

In speaking about the surface and what the garments are going to physically look like I want it to be apparent that there is a deeper story behind the collection. What is the most effective way to embed a story into a collection?

Media coverage of safety recalls in children’s products often includes hard goods such as child seats and furniture. Soft goods, such as children’s wear may also include potential hazards that can lead to choking, scratching or other injuries. Current safety guidelines recommend that snaps, buttons, etc. be used instead of drawstrings in children’s wear because of the potential for strangling. However, Disney’s recently recalled infant bodysuits because the snaps were detaching and presenting a choking hazard. Often, the consumer is unaware of violations occurring in the world of children’s wear. A class discussion in the Fashion School was the impetus for this research as few students were aware of product safety laws and violations that occur in the children’s wear area. Fashion School students are individuals who intend to work in the fashion industry and many are of an age where they may soon be consumers of children’s wear as parents.

Using a content analysis approach, the researchers will explore the product safety laws and violations that have occurred in children’s soft goods such as apparel, footwear, and accessories over the past three years and how these violations have been communicated to the fashion industry professionals and consumers.

The definition of cultural appropriation, according to the Oxford Dictionary, is “a term used to describe the taking over of creative or artistic forms, themes, or practices by one cultural group from another. It is in general, used to describe Western appropriations of non‐Western or non‐white forms, and carries connotations of exploitation and dominance”. Is it right that dominant groups in society are able to trivialize a culture's art, music, fashion, etc., that ultimately lead to a type of prejudiced stereotype where it originated, but is deemed as fashionable when the privileged take it for themselves, without attentiveness of the significance of the culture they are partaking in? On the other hand, are there proactive and positive things marginalized groups do to educate others on the proper way to appreciate their culture? This study is primarily concerned with the possibility of redirecting cultural appropriation into appreciation in a way that is respectful to that culture, but with an innovative approach, so as to promote unity in a society that is so ethnically diverse. How can we protect the traditional parts of a culture in a way that can be appreciated by the mass society? The word “Pawada” is a Yoruba word, it means “to change.” More specifically, it translates roughly to “one that has changed his ways”.This will be accomplished by utilizing aspects of fashion technology, such as digitalized prints and incorporating traditional elements from West African cultures; specifically the Massai tribe of Kenya and Tanzania, Adire from Nigeria and color inspiration from the Kente cloth of Ghana.