'Sutti Kapda' (cotton fabric) symbolized a simple and modest way of life, epitome of civil non-corporation during the freedom struggle in colonial India is now struggling with its new identity in 21st century. The question arises what it truly represents in modern times. Although cotton is the world’s oldest commercial crop and one of the most important fiber crops in the global textile industry, it fails to focus on the entire supply chain to ensure safe working environment and a living income for the farmers. Less than 10% of the money paid for clothes ends up in the hands of the makers. Farmers are often left invisible, neglected and poor at the end of a long and complex supply chain.

The fiber-to-fabric production chain, from cotton processing through apparel, employs more than 12 million workers in India and provides 16% of export earnings. Many problems that are identified in cotton cultivation have led to diminishing yields and distress in cotton producing states in India; along with drought, increasing input costs and debt caused by high interest rates for loans from non-formal credit sources drove several framers to commit suicide in many regions. Another major issue is the toxicity induced in the local environment due to extensive dependency on pesticides to sustain the crop production.

Cotton cultivation needs to be sustainable, providing livelihood security to millions of marginal and small farmers in India. Numerous small initiatives to sustain; have begun at Niche level, this research attempts to document organizations (Khamir- supporting indigenous cotton cultivation) and brands (like Cotton Rack, Upasana) that are coming together to reposition cotton to uplift and secure the future. It reviews and analyses the practices of cultivation from past and present to build a better future resulting in saving the marginalized farmer working in the complex fashion system to support the demand of urban consumer.